第一章——理髮 Chapter One - Barber Shop

自小在旺角這個老區長大，孩童時的記憶尤在。最記得是媽媽總愛把兩個地方做托兒所。一是大街市的豆腐店，經常坐著很多「阿媽去買點東西，很快回來」的小朋友。這個遲些有機會再談。

另一個是旁邊的理髮店。說是「店」，不如說是「舖」；說是「舖」，不如說是「檔」。上了年紀的理髮師一剪一剪的不知剪大了多少個孩子。那個檔口不在了，旺角現在這種在橫街窄巷的理髮店不知還剩幾多。今天就訪問了可能是碩果僅存的一間，李全記理髮。

李全記在七一年開業，服務社區將近四十個年頭。據店主李師傅所述，李全是他父親，曾經從事理髮剪買賣維修的工作，行內人都叫他作「舊廠」。李全先生原來在深水埗桂林街工作，當年因業主收舖，李老先生就把店子搬到現址，即花園街近亞皆老街的一條內巷。

當年十三歲的李師傅隨父親李全先生學習剪髮，一做就三十八個年頭了。不說不知，這類店子越來越少，除了是少人入行外，更是因為這種在後街設店的合法小販牌照在一九七六年以後已經沒有再發出。除了直系親屬可以承繼外，可以說是買少見少。就如李師傅的孩子都是大學畢業或正在求學，大概都不會繼承這個工作。

我問了李師傅：「可有想過開班授徒，承傳這門手藝？」李師傅客氣的說暫時沒有考慮。

李全記除了一眾老街坊，老主顧外(包括特意從新界坐車回來的老朋友)，原來也有不少外籍人士光顧。就好像今天我就遇上從澳洲來的朋友。他因工作關係，一年大概來港五六次。他總愛來李全記理髮。我問他為甚麼不上髮廊去？他說髮廊的髮形師多是草草的剪，快是快，但服務差的是；這裡呢？除了快和價錢，服務一流，很了解他的要求，剪出來完全不同。

但值得一提的是李師傅一直說不知這位朋友說甚麼。他們之間雖然有語言上的不同，但就是幾個手勢，李師傅就明白顧客的要求，給他一個稱心滿意。

據李師傅說，現時有些理髮店打著平價的旗號，但是李全記有的是長久建立的賓主關係，是理髮師傅和客人的感情和了解。理髮在我看來是一門工藝，不但要手勢好，和客人的微妙感情更見重要。這也是李全記一年大概只休息八九天的原因。

李全記就在近來鬧哄哄的洗衣街重建計劃附近，但暫不受影響。不過像李師傅這種手藝非凡的理髮師真的越見越少。

李師傅的不少行家都退而不休，有些更是年將九十還是到公園或社區會堂做個義工或象徵式收幾元作罷，算是繼續服務社會，不置手藝於一旁。

正如李師傅說，這正是將香港從小漁港發展成國際都會的老一輩的敬業與樂業。我們真的要多多學習。

大家有機會也不妨到李全記恤個髮，洗個頭罷！

愚者@旺角

二零零九年二月七日訪問及編寫

I grew up in Mong Kok when I was still a little boy. A lot treasurable memories are here. One of the most mysterious things was that a lot of moms put their children in the tofu shop in the "Big Market". Or else they were left in the baber shop just in the alley beside the tofu shop.

The baber shop, actually was a small stall set up in the alley. Recalling my memory, the old baber cut an cut hairs of a lot of children, then youngsters and men. The shop I went was no longer there, but today I found the one, maybe the last one in Mong Kok, the Lee Tsuen Baber Shop.

Lee Tseun Barber Shop open in 1971 and has been serving the community for almost 40 years. As recalled by the shop owner, Mr. Lee the Barber, his father started the business here when the shop on Kweilin St. Sham Shui Po was reclaimed by the landlord. Mr. Lee the senior was well known as "Gau Cong" (means Old Factory) as he was formerly a barber tools reseller and repairer.

Mr. Lee was thirteen that year and started learning hair-cutting under his father's mentorship, and has been serving the community for 38 years. You may wonder that this kind of barber shops become least and least. It is because the license of fixed stalls had been no longer released since 1976. Only close family member had the right the succeed the license, or else it would be reclaimed by the government. Children of Mr. Lee are university graduates or studying in unversities now. It is unlikely that they would succeed the work as a barber. 

I asked Mr. Lee, "did you think about teaching hair-cutting classes and pass over the technique?" Mr. Lee just kindly said it was not considered yet.

Lee Tseun Barber Shop is not only serving those long-term customers (some even travel for a long journey from New Territory back to Mong Kok for a hair-cut), but also foreigners. Occasionally, I met a friend from Australia. He comes to Hong Kong for business about five to six times annually. He loves to have hair cut in Mr. Lee's barber shop. I asked about the reason, his comment is that stylists in salon always finish the hair cut quickly without considering his desire. He thinks good service is as important as time and price. Mr. Lee has a pair of good hands and does his hair well.

Have to mention that Mr. Lee said he really doesn't understand what the Australian friend said. But when I saw how Mr. Lee skillfully took care of Mr. Australian's hair, communicating by gestures, this is what we call good service.

According Mr. Lee, there are now some barber shop with very cheap price, but Lee's Barber Shop relays on long-term relationship with customers. Hair-cutting to me is a kind of craftsmanship, the most important thing is not the skill, but the good relationship with customers. I think this is one of the reason why the barber shop only closes for important festival for about eight to nine days a year.

Lee's shop is very close to the hot topic Sai Yee Street Redevelopment site, but fortunately not affected. But skillful barber like Mr. Lee becomes rare.

Mr. Lee said a lot of old barbers still serve the community using their skillful hands as voluteer barber in community centres and parks. This is a kind of contribution to the society even after their retirement.

Just as Mr. Lee said, this is how the older generation work with respect and enjoyment, and led the little fishing village to an international city. This maybe the core value that we should learn, I think.

If you have time, maybe just come to Mr. Lee's barber shop to have a hair-cut or hair-wash!

The Stupid@Mong Kok

Interviewed and recorded on 7 February 2009